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It covers only the main 'Camino Frances', i.e. between the Roncesvalles pass in the Pyrenees and the city of Santiago (St James) (see map) . The route over the Somport pass, via Jaca, to Puente Ia Reina where the two roads meet is described in Arles to Puente Ia Reina guide. Campsites, cycle repair shops and food shops in isolated places are also included.
6km to Carrion de los Condes (2800, 840m)
Busy town with good shops. Santa Maria del Camino is a fine Romanesque church with Toulouse-style capitals. The church of Santiago has a portal and tympanum of Christ in Majesty, restored in 1992. On the western outskirts of the town is the monastery of San Zoilo, recently bought for conversion into a parador; it will probably also have pilgrim accommodation.
Accommodation: Hostal Ia Corte, calle Santa Maria 34, across the
road from the church, is good value (double for 4000-4500 ptas); room 103 has splendid view of church tympanum. Very good meals also (set menu 750 ptas). The Casa de Huespedes is run by the Restaurant El Resbalon, in a side street near Santa Maria; the rooms are near the restaurant which is not itself recommended. The Convento de Santa Clara has a small guest wing with hot water and cooking facilities.
Refuge: Albergue de Peregrinos (30) adjoins the church of Santa Maria and is run by the priest. Welcoming, hot showers, garden but no kitchen.
IMPORTANT - at Carrion buy some food before leaving and make sure you have plenty of water. Between Carrion and the next main town of Sahagun is a long and arid plain with little accommodation (other than refuges) except for the hostal at Calzadilla de Ia Cueza, and only a few bars and shops.
Leaving Carrion: cross river bridge, pass San Zoilo on the left and go straight on at new road junctions. Go on to next new road junction, where minor road is well waymarked.
14km by road to Cervatos de Ia Cueza (cyclists and motorists) which has bar and shop.
7km to Caizadilla de Ia Cueza (12km for walkers from Carrion)
Church of San Martin and accommodation: a good, modern hostal
with restaurant, The Camino Real (may close in early October).
No shop. Refuge: good, small municipal refuge near the town hall.
Shortly after Calzadilla look out for the large and deserted pilgrim hospital of Santa Maria de las Tiendas.
5km to Ledigos (147, 863m)
Church dedicated to Santiago Shop and bar. Private refuge in back street with pilgrim symbol outside; 800 ptas per night, dinner 700 ptas or cook your own; breakfast 150; hot showers.
4km to Terradillos de los Templarios has a useful fonda-cum refuge which does meals; 1000 ptas per person for accommodation, 400 for dinner. Not recommended for women travelling alone.
9km to Sahagun (2700, 836m)
The approaches to this ancient town are discouraging but the old centre, unseen at first, has a number of interesting churches. San Tirso, 12th c., in mudejar style, is open in the summer months; also San Lorenzo (13th c.). A huge arch is all that remains of what was the largest Benedictine monastery in Spain; nearby at the monastery of Santa Cruz the Madras Benedictinas have a small and interesting museum of religious art (closed on Fridays). From the isolated church of La Peregrina on the south side of town, over the main road, are good views of Sahagun.
Accommodation: Hostal Conde is recommended for its rooms and food, the Hostal Alfonso VI is new and comfortable (double with bath 3500 ptas), and the Hostal La Codorniz, calle Arco s.n. (ie no number) at the top of the town near the station is also reasonably priced with good food; in July they may only take groups. Fonda La Bilbaina/Mes6n Aranzazu at Avda Jose Antonio 121, near the station, has English-speaking owner: double without bath 2200 ptas. Also La Asturiana, Calle Lesmes Franco 2, is good value for rooms (2000 for a double) but not for food. The guest house run by the Madras Benedictinas costs around 3800 ptas for a double room.
The Complete route is covered in the The Village to Village Guide to the Camino Santiago
The Camino Frances an annually updated guide
The
guide is available from Telegraph Online International Book Club